At Golden Flooring & Remodeling and Denver Flooring & Remodeling, we know that many homeowners want the beauty of hardwood flooring without the complex installation process of solid wood.
At Golden Flooring & Remodeling and Denver Flooring & Remodeling, we know that many homeowners want the beauty of hardwood flooring without the complex installation process of solid wood. That’s where engineered hardwood comes in—it offers the same elegant appearance, but with more stability, durability, and DIY-friendly installation options. This guide is part of our DIY flooring series, designed to give you every single detail you need to install engineered hardwood flooring like a pro. Whether you’re using floating, glue-down, or nail-down installation, this guide walks you through every step, ensuring a flawless finish. And if you ever decide you’d rather let the professionals handle it, we offer expert hardwood installation services in Denver, Golden, Lakewood, Arvada, and beyond.
Engineered hardwood can be installed in three different ways depending on the subfloor and
personal preference
Floating Installation – Uses a click-lock system where planks snap together without
nails or glue.
Glue-Down Installation – The flooring is adhered to the subfloor using a strong
adhesive, recommended for concrete or high-traffic areas.
Nail-Down Installation – Planks are secured using a flooring nailer or stapler, best for
plywood subfloors.
Tip: Check the manufacturer’s recommendations to ensure you’re using the correct
installation method for your specific engineered hardwood flooring.
Place the boxes of engineered hardwood inside the installation area for at least 48 to
72 hours before starting.
Maintain a room temperature of 60-80°F and humidity levels of 30-50% to prevent
expansion or contraction after installation.
If using glue-down installation, check that the subfloor moisture content is within the
acceptable range using a moisture meter.
The subfloor must be dry, level, and clean for a proper installation.
Remove any existing flooring and ensure no adhesive residue remains.
Vacuum the entire surface to remove dust and debris.
If installing over concrete, apply a moisture barrier to prevent water damage.
If the subfloor is uneven, use a floor leveling compound for low spots and sand down
high areas.
Tip: The subfloor should be within ⅛ inch over a 6-foot span for best results
Start along the longest, straightest wall to ensure a clean and even layout.
Measure the room and calculate how many planks you’ll need.
Dry-lay a few planks to determine the best stagger pattern (minimum 6-inch offset
between plank seams).
Ensure the last row won’t be too narrow—adjust the starting row width if needed.
Tip: Staggering the planks prevents weak spots and creates a more natural
appearance.
For Floating (Click-Lock) Installation
Lay underlayment if required by the manufacturer.
Start with the tongue side facing the wall, leaving a ¼-inch expansion gap.
Click planks together at a 45-degree angle, pressing them down to lock into place.
Use a tapping block and rubber mallet to ensure a snug fit between planks.
Continue working row by row, staggering seams for a natural look.
For Glue-Down Installation
Spread flooring adhesive using a notched trowel, covering a small section at a time.
Lay planks into the adhesive and press down firmly.
Use a floor roller to ensure a strong bond.
Wipe away any excess glue immediately before it dries.
Continue laying planks, working row by row.
For Nail-Down Installation
Lay the first row along the chalk line, with the tongue facing the room.
Use a flooring nailer or stapler to secure each plank every 6-8 inches.
Ensure the boards are tightly connected using a tapping block and rubber mallet.
Continue installing row by row, staggering the planks for a natural look.
Use a jigsaw or oscillating tool to cut around door frames, vents, and other
obstacles.
If installing under a door jamb, use an undercut saw to trim the bottom of the frame so
the planks can slide underneath.
Tip: A heat gun can make cutting engineered hardwood easier, especially for
intricate shapes.
Measure the remaining gap and cut planks lengthwise to fit.
Use a pull bar to install the last planks snugly.
If necessary, use wood glue to secure the final pieces.
Remove spacers and install baseboards or quarter-round molding to cover the
expansion gap.
Install transition strips where the flooring meets tile, carpet, or other materials.
Clean the floor and avoid heavy furniture for 24 hours to let everything settle.
If your carpet meets tile, hardwood, or another flooring type, install transition strips for a
smooth transition.
Cut the transition strip to fit.
Secure it with nails, adhesive, or screws.
Press the carpet edge into the strip for a seamless finish.
Vacuum the carpet thoroughly to remove loose fibers.
Inspect seams and edges for any loose areas.
If needed, lightly dampen the carpet and let it dry overnight to settle fibers.
Tip: Avoid heavy furniture for 24-48 hours to allow the carpet to settle properly.
Planks won’t lock together – Ensure planks are inserted at the correct angle before snapping down.
Gaps between planks – Use a tapping block and mallet to ensure a tight fit.
Uneven flooring – The subfloor may not be level; use leveling compound before installation.
Buckling or warping – Ensure proper expansion gaps and control indoor humidity.
Peaking at the seams – This happens if the floor is too tight against walls. Trim
expansion gaps slightly if necessary.
Installing engineered hardwood flooring is one of the most DIY-friendly ways to achieve a high-end wood floor look without the complexity of solid hardwood. With the right preparation, tools, and techniques, you can create a beautiful, durable, and long-lasting floor.
📢 Have any questions? Need professional engineered hardwood installation instead of
DIY?
Our team provides expert flooring installation services in Denver, Golden, Lakewood,
Arvada, and beyond.